Women's Perfume Essens W183 — a Fragrance Inspired by Juliette Has a Gun Not a Perfume

An oriental fragrance — warm, sensual and almost invisible

🏛️ The Legend of Juliette Has a Gun Not a Perfume

Not a Perfume was launched in 2010 and gradually acquired cult status, becoming the best-selling fragrance of the Juliette Has a Gun brand. It was created by the niche house under the leadership of founder Romano Ricci, great-grandson of Nina Ricci and grandson of Robert Ricci, the creator of the legendary L’Air du Temps (1948), one of the most successful fragrances of the 20th century. Robert took his grandson to the perfume factory from the age of ten, and Romano could distinguish notes from childhood. But he did not follow in the family footsteps, by that time Nina Ricci belonged to Puig, and Ricci founded his own brand in 2006 to prove to everyone and to himself that he was capable of something independent. The name Juliette Has a Gun is Shakespeare’s Juliet with a gun, where Juliet is romance and the gun is fragrance as a weapon of seduction.

🎨 The first fragrances of the brand. The debut compositions Miss Charming and Lady Vengeance (2006) were created not by Ricci but by Francis Kurkdjian, the future creator of Baccarat Rouge 540 and a Dior perfumer. Ricci worked with him for the first two compositions, then gained experience and already signed the authorship of several successful fragrances under his brand. Not a Perfume (2010) is one of the first fragrances Ricci created himself.

Cetalox, not Ambroxan. The base of the fragrance is the molecule Cetalox, not Ambroxan as sometimes written. These are different molecules with different olfactory profiles. Ambroxan, produced by KAO and Symrise since the 1950s, is one enantiomer, the pure (-)-form, with a dry, mineral, crystal character, as in Dior Sauvage and Escentric Molecules 02. Cetalox, created by Firmenich in 1993, is a racemate, a 50/50 mix of both enantiomers, with a warm, creamy, skin-musk profile, as in Not a Perfume and Le Labo Another 13. It is Cetalox that makes Not a Perfume that very skin-fragrance rather than a fresh breeze. Some Russian-language sources write «cetalox, also known as Ambroxan», a simplification that distorts the essence.

The single molecule, a marketing myth. Fragrantica lists one note, Cetalox, but the ingredient list on ЛЭТУАЛЬ includes benzyl salicylate, linalool, eugenol and other components. One Fragrantica reviewer writes directly that this fragrance is actually not pure Cetalox, neither is the original Not A Perfume, both are constructed like the synthetic backbones of regular modern perfumes, with Hedione, Iso-E Super, Cetalox, a combination of many different musks and other ambery ingredients, and listing Cetalox as the only note is a marketing trick. This is not unique to Juliette Has a Gun, Escentric Molecules also do not consist of a «pure molecule» but include fixatives and carriers. But the single molecule is a beautiful legend, not a chemical reality.

🌍 Who invented the mono-fragrance genre. Not a Perfume did not appear out of nowhere. The mono-fragrance concept was pioneered by Geza Schoen, a nonconformist perfumer who in 2006 released Molecule 01 (pure Iso E Super) and in 2008 Molecule 02 (pure Ambroxan). Gold Apple writes directly that Romano Ricci found inspiration in the Escentric Molecules brand. Molecule 02 is on Ambroxan, Not a Perfume (2010) is on Cetalox. So Ricci took the ready-made mono-fragrance concept and applied a different molecule to it, with a warmer, skin-like character.

🌺 Cetalox in other fragrances of the brand. Ricci used Cetalox in many of his fragrances, most of it is in Lady Vengeance and Calamity J, slightly less in Miss Charming and Citizen Queen. Not a Perfume is an experiment, take an ingredient that usually works as a lining and make it the only hero. This is a bold move, but he did not invent Cetalox, he was the first to put it solo.

💎 The bottle. Laconic and elegant, transparent glass with a minimalist label and the signature seal of the brand.

How it sounds and wears. A skin-fragrance, a chameleon fragrance that sounds different on every person. Concentration is Eau de Parfum. Longevity depends greatly on the skin, from 2 to 12 hours, a huge range, because Cetalox interacts differently with skin chemistry. Sillage is usually quiet, close to the skin, but on some people it fills the room. Many note anosmia, they get used to it and stop smelling it, while those around them do. Fragrantica rating is 3.75 out of 5 with 15,141 votes.

🖤 Superdose 2019. In 2019 Not a Perfume Superdose was released, an intensified version with increased concentration of Cetalox (up to ~20%), unisex, in a milky-white bottle. Rating is 3.51 out of 5 with 3,391 votes. Many note that Superdose sounds brighter and cleaner, but the start is sharper, up to 15 minutes like laundry detergent, then like clean musk.

🎭 The idea of layering. Not a Perfume is designed both as a standalone fragrance and as an enhancer for other perfumes, Ricci himself recommends applying it over or under another fragrance to add skin depth and longevity. This is part of the concept, not a perfume means it does not claim the role of the main fragrance but works as a filter or steroid for other compositions.

📖 The Story of Four Notes

Amber — a warm amber note with a resinous glow. In the opening of W183 it sets a sensual and noble tone, softly enveloping the skin and creating the effect of a natural, "your own" fragrance.

White Flowers — a delicate floral accord with powdery softness. In the heart of the composition it adds refinement and lightness, and together with amber it sounds especially elegant.

Musk — a velvety note with sensual tenderness. In the base it creates a soft, enveloping trail that stays with you for a long time and sounds different on everyone.

Woody and Powdery Notes — noble woody longevity and a delicate haze. In the base they give the fragrance depth and elegance, leaving a cozy, refined trace behind.

👤 The Woman of W183

She is natural and intellectual. Her beauty does not require loud accents — it lies in calm confidence, inner freedom and the ability to be herself without playing games.

Neutral shades, minimalist jewelry, light makeup and natural fabrics suit her. She loves silence, morning light, good books and moments when she can be alone with herself. Her style is luxury without provocation, sensuality without vulgarity.

Essens W183 stays with her all day: in the morning it opens with warm amber; during the day it reveals white flowers and amber; in the evening it warms with musk, woody and powdery notes. This is a companion fragrance for those who value naturalness and elusive attractiveness.

⚖️ Essens W183 and the Original Side by Side

The only difference is the price and the bottle. The scent remains recognizable from the very first seconds.

✨ Women's perfume W183 by Essens is an oriental fragrance that unfolds with warm amber, delicate white flowers and a velvety base of musk, woody and powdery notes. It captures the magic of niche perfumery — inspired by the legendary Juliette Has a Gun Not a Perfume. Every drop conveys the recognizable accord familiar to fans of the original and gives a feeling of naturalness, sensuality and elusive attractiveness.

A versatile fragrance for any season and any occasion. Try it and see for yourself.